A sheet of drywall can weigh over 50 pounds. Not only that, drywall is wobbly and hard to manage. You can cut entire lengths of drywall easily, even without setting the sheets flat on the floor. Get your 48" drywall square. Square the "T" end with the left side of the drywall. With your utility knife, score a line as far as you can.
Next, square up on the right side. Complete the score. Put your sheet of drywall on end. Reverse the sheet so that you are facing the back of the drywall the unscored side. Roughly locate the scoring area. With your knee, hit the drywall. This is no time for indecisiveness: give it a firm pop. The drywall will break perfectly along the scoreline. Now you're practically done. Using a straight edge or chalk line as a guide, cut through the paper and into the gypsum core on the face side of the drywall sheet with a sharp utility knife.
Step 2: Break Drywall Sheet Along Scored Line While supporting the drywall sheet on the back, apply pressure to the face, causing the piece to break cleanly along the joint. Step 3: Cut Through Paper on Back of Drywall Sheet Score the paper on the back of drywall sheet with a utility knife to compete the cut.
Sawing A drywall saw is used to make cuts for windows and doors while a smaller keyhole saw is perfect for cutting around electrical boxes and other small openings.
While professional drywall hangers often use a special high-speed rotary tool to cut around openings with the sheet in place, most do-it-yourself projects will involve measuring and cutting the sheet before it is installed. Start by measuring horizontally from the corner of the room to the edge of the jamb and transfer the measurement to the drywall. Next, measure vertically down from the ceiling or up from floor and transfer that measurement to the sheet as well.
Mark the drywall on the face with a straightedge and make the shorter of the two cuts with the drywall saw. Next, score the other line and snap off the cut piece. The holes for electrical boxes need to be a tighter fit than those around windows and doors. The most common method is to measure and mark the location of the cutouts, then draw the outline on the sheet using an extra electrical box as a guide.
Another method is to rub a tube of lipstick around the edge of the box, hold the sheet in place, and press it against the box to transfer the outline to the drywall. After determining the location of the electrical box on the drywall sheet, use an extra box as a pattern for the cutout.
Step 2: Cut Electrical Box Opening with Drywall Keyhole Saw After marking the location of the electrical box, use a course tooth, drywall keyhole saw to cut out the opening. Once the location has been marked, cut around it with a keyhole saw by plunging the sharp point into the sheet.
Hold the blade at an angle so the cutout is slightly larger on the back than on the front. Drywall can either be nailed or attached using drywall screws. Keep a bucket of water nearby and quickly run each piece of tape through it before applying the tape to the wall. In general, paper drywall tape is slightly stronger and more versatile, but mesh tape has a more manageable learning curve and better moisture resistance.
At the end of the day, this contest comes down to personal preference: use the tape that you're most comfortable with! The tape actually should show through the filler coat; if it doesn't, your filler coat is too thick. If your first final coat doesn't cover the tape , apply more coats, but keep them thin. Lightly sand the area with the damaged drywall tape using a drywall sanding screen.
Peel away the damaged tape and drywall compound with a putty knife. Step 3: Cut the Support and Install in the Wall. Step 4: Cut the Drywall Patch to Size. Step 6: Complete the Drywall Patch. Most common causes Probably the most common cause is that there was insufficient drywall compound applied to the taped joint or improper application.
Moisture or dampness may also cause the tape to come loose. Add a cup of water to 2 gallons of mud to make the mud slightly more pliable than the original pre-mixed mud if you're going to do any texturing with a drywall knife, such as knockdown, Spanish knife or skim coating. The mud shouldn't be runny -- it should stay on your knife without dripping over the edges.
Hanging drywall horizontally does place seams at a more convenient height for finishing, resulting in better work, but that's only part of the story.
Also, when drywall is installed horizontally , you end up with an unsupported joint between each stud. If fastened vertically , every edge will land securely on a stud. If you hang drywall backwards , the rougher backing material will be visible through paint.
Also, drywall has beveled edges that ease the process of drywall finishing. Drywall finishers embed paper drywall tape along the seams, so installing the tape within the bevel makes the taped seam rest below a flush level.
This allows for floor and wall expansion without cracking the drywall. With your utility knife, cut the paper on the back side of the drywall. That's it! You 're done. Thin strips of wood can also be used as spacing guides. When hanging the drywall on the walls, always hang the top sheet first.
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